Kisawa Sanctuary review – The Points Guy

Getting there

Kisawa is located on Benguerra Island, which is one of six islands that make up the Bazaruto Archipelago, situated 9 miles off Mozambique’s 1,600-mile-long coastline. Its remote location makes arriving a little trickier than elsewhere, but not prohibitively difficult.

Most guests choose to fly into the major hub that is O.R. Tambo International Airport (JNB) in Johannesburg, which has direct arrivals from most major North American and European cities. From there you’ll find daily flights (around 90 minutes) to Vilankulo Airport (VNX) on Mozambique’s mainland. The last leg of the trip brings you to paradise with a touch of drama and glamour: a helicopter transfer from Vilankulo Airport to the Kisawa helipad. The flight, which is coordinated by the resort, takes around 6 minutes; a round-trip charter costs about $670 per person (it’s complimentary for stays of over seven nights).

Booking details

Kisawa has eight residences ranging from one-bedroom villas spanning over 1,600 feet all the way up to the two-bungalow Kisawa Residence, which clocks in at over 3,200 square feet. Rates start at $5,544 per night for a one-bedroom residence at the all-inclusive rate, which includes butler service, welcome drinks, complimentary laundry and unpacking services, use of a hotel vehicle (more on that below), a personalized minibar, and a 60-minute Mozambican ritual at the wellness center, as well as dining and drinks across all outlets.

Things we loved

• The privacy, spaciousness and location of the villas.
• An impressive array of dining options for a hotel with only eight accommodations.
• Access to a private butler.
• The property’s commitment to conservation and research.
• The electric vehicles guests are given for their stay to travel around the resort.

Drawbacks

• The solitude might not be suitable for all travelers, especially extroverts (we barely saw another person during our stay).
• The remote location means that it’s not simple getting in and out (but you will be rewarded for your trouble!).
• The price point will be beyond what most travelers can afford, so this may be a major splurge or once-in-a-lifetime redemption for many.

The vibe

You’ll start feeling the Kisawa vibe long before you hop on the helicopter transfer. While chatting with people in the hotel we stayed at on the mainland, some shared whispers of the celebrities that may or may not have made Kisawa their home for a few nights, and others a gasp of excitement at the thought of what we were about to experience.

During the six-minute helicopter ride to the island, looking down at the ocean, we could spot manta rays and sea turtles, setting the scene for what was ahead. On and around the island we saw flamingos, schools of tropical fish, duikers, springboks, lizards and chameleons.

Upon arrival, we were greeted at the helipad and driven to our room in an electric Moke, which is like a mini Jeep. That vehicle would become ours for our whole stay.

The check-in formalities are not what you might experience elsewhere; instead of entering a lobby, we got everything sorted right from our outdoor dayroom where Daniel, our personal butler, was waiting with fresh fruit, snacks and cocktails — and a table was even set for lunch.

When you stroll about the property, alongside the sound of the ocean, you’ll hear music that just feels right: Think soft Brazilian summer beats one moment and gorgeous covers of Ibizan classics the next. It’s these things that create a sense of laid-back serenity.

The room

The room, or residence, is where we spent almost all of our time — we simply didn’t want to leave. The one-bedroom residence sprawled over 1,600 square feet and featured an outdoor dayroom, a private swimming pool and private beach access. Each plot on the property is afforded a minimum of 1 acre of private space, so there is plenty of room to roam.

Design elements, from masonry to flooring and tiling, were created with an on-site 3D printer, fed partly with seawater and sand, utilizing a patented sand-printing technology. Merged with Mozambican weaving, thatching, carpentry and textile skills, the result is a design that both feels modern and reflective of the surrounding environment.

We entered the main building through giant doors with beautiful colored glass inlay, into the high-ceilinged living area, decorated with plush furnishings in hues of cream, brown and green, which gave an immediate sense of nature and calm. There was a minibar stocked with all of our favorite spirits and drinks (the hotel had asked for our preferences ahead of time), as well as jars of snacks and selections of coffee from around the world.

One particularly special touch was the record player with a stack of expertly curated albums on a side table against one wall.

Beyond the living room was the bedroom. The king-size bed had crisp white sheets and fluffy pillows that were an ideal combination of squishy and supportive — a welcome departure from what I had experienced throughout my trip through Africa up until Kisawa. Across from the bed, windows looked straight out onto the beach and sea beyond.

Everywhere we looked there were details that added to the style and peerless curation of the residence. Atop an ottoman, at the end of the bed, sat two hats, woven locally. Partly practical, partly decor. It just worked.

The bathroom was just as grand as the previous two rooms in our residence. Two large wardrobe areas (where your butlers will unpack your clothes for you) and two giant vanities were situated on both sides of the bathroom.

At the end of the room sat one of the most beautiful bathtubs I’ve ever seen, artful in its unique shape, as well as an oversize shower. Products in the room, such as shampoo and soap, were selected before our arrival, based on preferences and skin type.

The room had a wraparound terrace with armchairs and sun loungers set out at various points.

A second, and more open, building served as the dayroom. This came complete with multiple seating areas, a bathroom and outdoor shower area, a more formal dining table, and a full kitchen where food and drinks can be (and will be!) prepared. Our butler, Daniel, was always on hand here to ensure we had everything we needed.

Beyond this palatial open-air space was the private swimming pool, which is afforded to each and every residence. There were also multiple seating options here.

A path from the pool led across the dunes to a stretch of beach with our own solitary pair of sun loungers for the ultimate beach chill experience.

Food and drink

At Kisawa, there is a surprising number of dining choices for a resort with so few “rooms.” The main terrace is the closest thing you’ll find to a formal restaurant, but it still has a very relaxed vibe. The pared-back decor is stunning both inside and out on the terrace. Here they serve breakfast and remain open for lunch and dinner.

On our first morning we had breakfast on the main terrace, which was a gorgeous spot to watch the waves lapping against the beach while a delectable feast was served. A particular highlight was the pancakes, which we thought were some of the best we’ve ever tried. Also notable was the inclusion of locally grown herbs and vegetables in many dishes, including the omelet.

We also had dinner on the main terrace, but this time, we were ushered into the delightfully cool wine cellar in the center of the restaurant. We chose the smoked fish ceviche and wagyu, and that beef turned out to be one of the best-cooked steaks I’ve ever had.

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NICKY KELVIN/THE POINTS GUY

The Cove Mussassa beach cafe is a more casual dining spot and was a very handy two-minute walk from our villa. There were no menus when we visited — who has the time or energy to read or choose, anyway? Instead, we were served a surprise feast that kicked off with ice-cold local beer and fresh lobster salad. Shortly after, we enjoyed a chicken pasta and grilled lobster main, followed by a pineapple dessert, all set against the backdrop of funky beach tunes.

My favorite spot at Kisawa may well have been Baracca, a bar with bright neon signs and incredible views. We spent a night there enjoying cocktails (opt for the spicy margarita), and it was one of the most special dining experiences of our stay.

Lots of beach hotels will attempt a fun barbecue dinner, but for me it never usually hits. Kisawa was a different story. The fish, prawns, steak, chicken and lamb chops were all delicious — juicy and piping hot, and expertly cooked, seasoned and charred — and the side dishes were an ideal pairing. I’ve never quite had a barbecue like it. This experience, which isn’t included in the standard all-inclusive nightly rate, will set you back $707 plus service fees and tax for up to four people.

Even the in-room dining blew us away. We occasionally ate breakfast, lunch or dinner in the comfort of our own compound, and even these meals were served up hot, fresh and tasty.

Amenities at Kisawa Sanctuary

Like the abundance of dining options, we found a surprising number of amenities and activities at Kisawa Sanctuary.

The spa at Kisawa, known as the Natural Wellness Centre, is a hub of peace in the center of the resort. You’ll find all your usual treatments but some unexpected options — such as Africa’s only infrared sauna, known as the Iyashi Dome, which kicked off an experience that we followed with a bespoke treatment (it left me feeling like a whole new human).

The gym was small but well appointed with most of what you will need if you’re the type, like me, to keep working out even on vacation.

There are also regular classes on offer featuring Pilates, yoga and the like.

If you get bored of your private pool, there is also a communal pool area with a view of the sand dunes and beaches.

We opted to take a marine life expedition on one of Kisawa’s speedboats, which, true to the resort’s form, are also set up for luxury. Halfway through the trip, ice-cold Coke Zeros (our favorite drink) were pulled out of a box along with prawn summer rolls, fruit kebabs, biltong and nuts.

During the expedition, while we did see dolphins and beautiful fish, we only saw one flash of a dugong tail. We made up for this fleeting sighting, though, by paddling out toward a flock of flamingos hanging out on the beaches. For those who enjoy whale watching, note that from July to September, the Mozambique Channel becomes the ideal breeding and nursing ground for humpback whales, and you’ll be able to spot them on these trips. The expedition costs $800 per boat of up to five people. You can even upgrade this experience by flying above the whales in a helicopter.

Conservation is taken incredibly seriously here. Kisawa’s sister organization, the Bazaruto Center for Scientific Studies, conducts research to inform, educate and protect the waters and diversity of Bazaruto National Marine Park. Guests are able to join in by boarding the BCSS research boat to conduct 3D seabed mapping.

If you want even more, you can be kept busy with climbing, hiking, fishing, kayaking and other guided nature experiences.

Service at Kisawa Sanctuary

In terms of the hotel’s service, each and every member of the team that we encountered was incredibly attentive. From the waiters to the spa staff, everyone knew our names and preferences.

There were many thoughtful touches throughout our stay. For example, staff members would clandestinely sneak into our terribly parked Moke vehicle and turn it around and repark it neatly, ready for our next journey. Ice-cold scented towels were waiting for us every time we arrived anywhere. Our fridges were stocked with our favorite drinks, and a coffee machine and foam maker were added to our dayroom to ensure we could drink the freshest, foamiest hot cappuccinos.

Out and about

It’s possible to venture out on the island of Benguerra, which has a population of over 2,000. The island hosts one kindergarten, one school and one hospital, and if you want a local experience you can pop out to enjoy a football match being played by the local communities. If you’re up for it, you can even join in!

Back on the mainland, I particularly loved a visit to the central market in Vilankulo, which gave some insight into the real day-to-day life in Mozambique.

Accessibility

Due to the layout of facilities and accommodations set into the sand dunes, this resort may not be suitable for those with limited mobility. In particular, independent wheelchair accessibility is challenging due to sandy pathways and the stairs to the residences.

When I inquired about accessibility options, Kisawa advised that it is always happy to discuss specific requirements in advance to explore how it can best accommodate individual needs.

Checking out

Kisawa is truly like nowhere else I’ve ever visited. The combination of laid-back luxury, devastatingly gorgeous settings and views, and a resort designed to both relax you to your core and provide exciting adventures creates a hotel experience that I will spend my years seeking an opportunity to return to.

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Writer’s note: Mozambique is currently experiencing ongoing political instability. It is important to check the latest advice from the relevant government entity, such as the U.S. Department of State or U.K. Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office, as this may affect, among other things, the consular help your government can afford you if required and the validity of travel insurance. Consider this information to decide for yourself whether this will affect your travel plans.